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Abstract We examine a two-dimensional deep-water surface gravity wave packet generated by a pressure disturbance in the Lagrangian reference frame. The pressure disturbance has the form of a narrow-banded weakly nonlinear deep-water wave packet. During forcing, the vorticity equation implies that the momentum resides entirely in the near-surface Lagrangian-mean flow, which in this context is often called the “Stokes drift”. After the forcing turns off, the wave packet propagates away from the forcing region, carrying with it most of the energy imparted by the forcing. These waves together with their induced long wave response have no momentum in a depth integrated sense, in agreement with the classical results of Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (Deep Sea Research and Oceanographic Abstracts 11, 592−562) and McIntyre (Journal of Fluid Mechanics 106, 331−347). The total flow associated with the propagating packet has no net momentum. In contrast with the finite-depth scenario discussed by McIntyre (Journal of Fluid Mechanics 106, 331−347), however, momentum imparted to the fluid during forcing resides in a dipolar structure that persists in the forcing region—rather than being carried away by shallow-water waves. We conclude by examining waves propagating from deep to shallow water and show that wave packets, which initially have no momentum, may have non-zero momentum in finite-depth water through reflected and trapped long waves. This explains how deep water waves acquire momentum as they approach shore. The artificial form of the parameterized forcing from the wind facilitates the thought experiments considered in this paper, as opposed to striving to model more realistic wind forcing scenarios. 

The particle trajectories in irrotational, incompressible and inviscid deep-water surface gravity waves are open, leading to a net drift in the direction of wave propagation commonly referred to as the Stokes drift, which is responsible for catalysing surface wave-induced mixing in the ocean and transporting marine debris. A balance between phase-averaged momentum density, kinetic energy density and vorticity for irrotational, monochromatic and spatially periodic two-dimensional water waves is derived by working directly within the Lagrangian reference frame, which tracks particle trajectories as a function of their labels and time. This balance should be expected as all three of these quantities are conserved following particles in this system. Vorticity in particular is always conserved along particles in two-dimensional inviscid flow, and as such even in its absence it is the value of the vorticity that fundamentally sets the drift, which in the Lagrangian frame is identified as the phase-averaged momentum density of the system. A relationship between the drift and the geometric mean water level of particles is found at the surface, which highlights connections between the geometry and dynamics. Finally, an example of an initially quiescent fluid driven by a wavelike pressure disturbance is considered, showing how the net momentum and energy from the surface pressure disturbance transfer to the wave field, and recognizing the source of the mean Lagrangian drift as the net momentum required to generate an irrotational surface wave by any conservative force. 

A light breeze rising over calm water initiates an intricate chain of events that culminates in a centimetres-deep turbulent shear layer capped by gravity–capillary ripples. At first, viscous stress accelerates a laminar wind-drift layer until small surface ripples appear. The surface ripples then catalyse the growth of a second instability in the wind-drift layer, which eventually sharpens into along-wind jets and downwelling plumes, before devolving into three-dimensional turbulence. In this paper, we compare laboratory experiments with simplified, wave-averaged numerical simulations of wind-drift layer evolution beneath monochromatic, constant-amplitude surface ripples seeded with random initial perturbations. Despite their simplicity, our simulations reproduce many aspects of the laboratory-based observations – including the growth, nonlinear development and turbulent breakdown the wave-catalysed instability – generally validating our wave-averaged model. But we also find that the simulated development of the wind-drift layer is disturbingly sensitive to the amplitude of the prescribed surface wave field, such that agreement is achieved through suspiciously careful tuning of the ripple amplitude. As a result of this sensitivity, we conclude that wave-averaged models should really describe the coupled evolution of the surface waves together with the flow beneath to be regarded as truly ‘predictive’. 

The role of the Lagrangian mean flow, or drift, in modulating the geometry, kinematics and dynamics of rotational and irrotational deep-water surface gravity waves is examined. A general theory for permanent progressive waves on an arbitrary vertically sheared steady Lagrangian mean flow is derived in the Lagrangian reference frame and mapped to the Eulerian frame. A Lagrangian viewpoint offers tremendous flexibility due to the particle labelling freedom and allows us to reveal how key physical wave behaviour arises from a kinematic constraint on the vorticity of the fluid, inter alia the nonlinear correction to the phase speed of irrotational finite amplitude waves, the free surface geometry and velocity in the Eulerian frame, and the connection between the Lagrangian drift and the Benjamin–Feir instability. To complement and illustrate our theory, a small laboratory experiment demonstrates how a specially tailored sheared mean flow can almost completely attenuate the Benjamin–Feir instability, in qualitative agreement with the theory. The application of these results to problems in remote sensing and ocean wave modelling is discussed. We provide an answer to a long-standing question: remote sensing techniques based on observing current-induced shifts in the wave dispersion will measure the Lagrangian, not the Eulerian, mean current. 

Geometric, kinematic and dynamic properties of focusing deep-water surface gravity wave packets are examined in a simplified model with the intent of deriving a wave breaking threshold parameter. The model is based on the spatial modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation of Dysthe ( Proc. R. Soc. Lond.  A, vol. 369 (1736), 1979, pp. 105–114). The evolution of initially narrow-banded and weakly nonlinear chirped Gaussian wave packets are examined, by means of a trial function and a variational procedure, yielding analytic solutions describing the approximate evolution of the packet width, amplitude, asymmetry and phase during focusing. A model for the maximum free surface gradient, as a function of $$\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$$ and $$\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$$ , for $$\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}$$ the linear prediction of the maximum slope at focusing and $$\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$$ the non-dimensional packet bandwidth, is proposed and numerically examined, indicating a quasi-self-similarity of these focusing events. The equations of motion for the fully nonlinear potential flow equations are then integrated to further investigate these predictions. It is found that a model of this form can characterize the bulk partitioning of $$\unicode[STIX]{x1D716}-\unicode[STIX]{x1D6E5}$$ phase space, between non-breaking and breaking waves, serving as a breaking criterion. Application of this result to better understanding air–sea interaction processes is discussed. 

While it has long been recognized that Lagrangian drift at the ocean surface plays a critical role in the kinematics and dynamics of upper ocean processes, only recently has the contribution of wave breaking to this drift begun to be investigated through direct numerical simulations (Deike et al. ,  J. Fluid Mech. , vol. 829, 2017, pp. 364–391; Pizzo et al. ,  J. Phys. Oceanogr. , vol. 49(4), 2019, pp. 983–992). In this work, laboratory measurements of the surface Lagrangian transport due to focusing deep-water non-breaking and breaking waves are presented. It is found that wave breaking greatly enhances mass transport, compared to non-breaking focusing wave packets. These results are in agreement with the direct numerical simulations of Deike  et al. ( J. Fluid Mech. , vol. 829, 2017, pp. 364–391), and the increased transport due to breaking agrees with their scaling argument. In particular, the transport at the surface scales with $$S$$ , the linear prediction of the maximum slope at focusing, while the surface transport due to non-breaking waves scales with $$S^{2}$$ , in agreement with the classical Stokes prediction. 

Using direct numerical simulations (DNS), Deike et al. found that the wave-breaking-induced mass transport, or drift, at the surface for a single breaking wave scales linearly with the slope of a focusing wave packet, and may be up to an order of magnitude larger than the prediction of the classical Stokes drift. This model for the drift due to an individual breaking wave, together with the statistics of wave breaking measured in the field, are used to compute the Lagrangian drift of breaking waves in the ocean. It is found that breaking may contribute up to an additional 30% to the predicted values of the classical Stokes drift of the wave field for the field experiments considered here, which have wind speeds ranging from 1.6 to 16 m s⁻¹, significant wave heights in the range of 0.7–4.7 m, and wave ages (defined here as c_m/ u_*, for the spectrally weighted phase velocity c_mand the wind friction velocity u_*) ranging from 16 to 150. The drift induced by wave breaking becomes increasingly more important with increasing wind friction velocity and increasing significant wave height.